Istanbul Is a Turkish Delight

Our planning for the “X” trip yielded an added bonus — a short visit to Istanbul, sometimes called the crossroads of the world. 

Let’s take a few steps back. During the planning phase for the trip, we quickly realized flying into Barcelona and renting a car from there would provide us the best way to get to Xixerella and then Bordeaux. We also knew we’d be flying from the Washington, DC area since at the time, I was expected to be there for work the week prior to our trip and Judy wanted to spend some time with the grandkids. There were lots of options from Washington Dulles airport, all requiring a stop somewhere in Europe before proceeding to Barcelona. The Turkish Airlines option was the most intriguing since we could fly Business Class for just 15-20% more than most airlines’ Premium Economy Class (and well below most Business Class offerings). They also offered Business Class travelers two nights’ stay in your choice of a 5-Star Hotel in Istanbul. It made sense: the state-owned airline wanted to bring tourists to its largest city. Since neither of us had been there, it was a no-brainer. Judy booked the tickets and, perusing the list of available hotels, chose the Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus.

A few quick words about our experience with the airline — it rocked. Our flights between the U.S. and Istanbul were simply luxurious, with truly attentive service and chef-prepared meals. The Business Lounge in Istanbul was huge, with several chef-manned stations from which to choose local specialty foods while we waited for our flights, several choices of Turkish wines (quite good!), and other drink choices. We even enjoyed hot showers and short naps in private rooms after our long flight from IAD, arranged by the on-site concierge to help fill our 5-hour layover on the way to Barcelona. 

But I digress …

Landing in Istanbul’s expansive, modern, and sparkling clean airport for our stopover on the way home at the end of our trip, we found our way to the taxi stand. The dispatcher, learning that we were going to the Conrad, suggested the “luxurious” taxi (really, a nicely appointed van) for 55 euros. We accepted, quickly learning that tips are expected in Turkey. We demurred, having NO cash with us (not even euros). Lesson learned: If you’re going to Turkey, get a LOT of Turkish Lira before leaving the airport (200 TL was about the equivalent of US$5). A lot of taxis and local restaurants don’t take credit cards.

Checking-in at the Conrad while Judy chatted with the concierge, I learned our free room was a Deluxe “City View” room. I enquired about upgrades, and in the spirit of YOLO, chose a Bosphorus view suite. The room didn’t disappoint and a few short minutes after we swiped into the room, a knock at the door revealed an attendant with a bottle of wine, some chocolates and a small basket of local fruit.

The concierge had booked us that evening with a couple’s hammam experience with massage. The provided driver met us at the hotel and negotiated the terrifyingly tight streets, jammed with traffic seemingly effortlessly. After being swooshed with buckets of perfectly warmed water and scrubbed by loofah-mitted attendants, we laid on warmed marble for a dousing of airy, aromatic bubbles before a brisk cold water rinse. From there it was off to loungers for a few minutes while our attendants changed into dry clothes (they were understandably soaked coming out of the wet room). We sipped Turkish tea and nibbled on fresh fruit before heading to separate massage rooms. AHHHHH … massage! ‘Nuf said! There’s no doubt the whole experience played a role in our blissful night’s sleep.

The next morning, we had a full, hot breakfast in the Executive Lounge (a perk of staying in a suite!), then met our local guide, Gem, for our all-day tour of the old city (also arranged by the concierge). We grabbed a taxi — Gem did the negotiating for us — and headed toward the Sultanahmet Camii, colloquially known as the Blue Mosque. We weren’t appropriately dressed to go inside the mosque (wraps and coverings for women are available at the mosque if needed), but we were more interested in the exterior architecture and history of the mosque and its environs. We walked along the Hippodrome and down to the Hagia Sophia, sharing a Turkish Tea refreshment with Gem along the way. We visited the vast underground cisterns, learning these were designed as a defensive tool against ancient invaders who would shut off water supplies during a siege. With plenty of water in the cisterns, the city’s citizens could outlast any invader!

For lunch, Gem suggested a local eatery well known for its köfte — essentially Turkish meatballs. They were delicious! Then, we walked to the famous Grand Bazaar. Considered one of the first shopping malls of the world, the Grand Bazaar could satisfy any shopper’s dream! Judy picked up some gold and white gold earrings (again, Gem helped us in the negotiations, a huge benefit!); one seller almost had us buying buttery-soft leather jackets, but good sense prevailed — we live in Arizona and rarely need jackets, much less leather ones — and left with our wallets intact.

We walked to the final stop of our day — the nearby Spice Bazaar. Gem took us to his favorite vendor, where we spent a good 45 minutes smelling and tasting a mere sampling of the expansive variety of some of the freshest spices we’ve experienced. I was in heaven! We bought some vanilla beans, saffron, and some unique blends (we didn’t wait long after getting home to try them!). Mouths watering, we hopped on a ferry back to the other side of the bay and bid farewell to Gem before changing for dinner at the hotel’s excellent Mazara restaurant and another restful night of sleep.

Normally, a trip home from an epic trip can be deflating, but not in this case. Back at the airport for our flight home, the perks of flying Business Class revealed themselves some more … a separate, luxurious check-in area led to a separate VIP entrance to security. The lounge offered its usual excellent fare, then on to the gate where more VIP treatment was to be had. We enjoyed the same excellent service and food on our flight home. 

Our trip to Istanbul may have been an add-on, but it became its own unique, wonderful experience. We’re already talking about potentially going back.

There’s a whole world out there waiting to be explored. Take the add-ons, spring for the upgrades. You only live once!

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